:root{--ink:#172b30;--muted:#52666b;--accent:#c8e986;--line:#d9e1e2;--paper:#fff;--dark:#0f2427}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:35px}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font-family:Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:18px;line-height:1.75}a{color:inherit;text-underline-offset:5px}a:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:3px solid #577d19;outline-offset:6px}.skip{position:absolute;left:20px;top:-100px;background:white;padding:15px;z-index:5}.skip:focus{top:10px}.masthead{max-width:1424px;margin:auto;padding:28px 6%;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);gap:24px}.brand{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:34px;font-weight:700;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap;letter-spacing:-1.5px}.brand>span:not(.brand-dot){font-style:italic;font-weight:400;margin:0 5px;color:#668147}.brand-dot{color:#668147}.masthead nav{display:flex;gap:32px;align-items:center;font-size:14px}.masthead nav a{text-decoration:none}.masthead nav a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.title-block{max-width:1200px;margin:70px auto 45px;padding:0 40px}.eyebrow{font-size:12px!important;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:2px;line-height:1.5!important;margin:0 0 22px!important;color:var(--muted)}h1{font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;font-size:clamp(52px,6.7vw,96px);font-weight:400;line-height:1.06;letter-spacing:-3px;margin:0 0 27px}h1 em{font-weight:400;color:#45605e}.deck{font-size:22px;color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 30px}.byline{display:flex;gap:14px;align-items:center;font-size:14px;flex-wrap:wrap}.avatar{width:35px;height:35px;display:grid;place-items:center;border-radius:50%;background:var(--dark);color:var(--accent);font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:20px}.season{margin-left:auto;color:var(--muted);font-size:13px}.hero{margin:0 auto;max-width:1320px;background:var(--dark)}.hero img{display:block;width:100%;height:auto}.hero figcaption{color:#e8f2f2;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;padding:18px 28px;font-size:13px;letter-spacing:.4px}.hero figcaption span:first-child{font-size:12px;letter-spacing:1.5px}.fact-strip{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);max-width:1120px;margin:0 auto 80px;padding:35px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.fact-strip>div{padding:0 25px;border-right:1px solid var(--line)}.fact-strip>div:last-child{border:0}.fact-strip strong{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:36px;font-weight:400;display:block;line-height:1.3}.fact-strip span{font-size:13px;line-height:1.5;color:var(--muted);display:block;margin-top:8px}.reading-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:225px minmax(0,790px);gap:65px;max-width:1120px;margin:auto;padding:0 0 80px}.reading-layout aside{font-size:14px;align-self:start;position:sticky;top:25px;max-height:calc(100vh - 50px);overflow:auto}.reading-layout aside details{border-top:2px solid var(--ink);padding-top:17px}.reading-layout aside summary{font-weight:700;cursor:pointer;margin-bottom:14px}.reading-layout aside a{display:flex;text-decoration:none;font-size:13px;line-height:1.5;padding:7px 0;color:var(--muted);gap:10px}.reading-layout aside a:hover{color:var(--ink);text-decoration:underline}.reading-layout aside a span{font-size:12px;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;color:#738889;min-width:20px}article{min-width:0}article p{margin:0 0 24px;font-size:18px;line-height:1.85}article .opening>p:nth-child(2){font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:29px;line-height:1.5;color:var(--ink)}.chapter{margin-top:65px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:45px;scroll-margin-top:25px}.chapter h2{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-weight:400;line-height:1.18;font-size:40px;letter-spacing:-.7px;margin:0 0 28px}.chapter strong{font-weight:700}.chapter figure{margin:32px 0 12px}.chapter figure img{width:100%;height:auto;display:block}.chapter figure.portrait{max-width:550px;margin:36px auto}.chapter figcaption{font-size:13px;line-height:1.55;color:var(--muted);padding:12px 0 0}.photo-pair{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:20px}.photo-pair figure{min-width:0}.photo-pair img{aspect-ratio:auto}.table-scroll{overflow-x:auto;margin:25px 0 30px}table{border-collapse:collapse;width:100%;font-size:15px;line-height:1.6;text-align:left}th{background:#edf3f3;font-size:14px}td,th{padding:16px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);vertical-align:top}#costs{background:var(--dark);color:#edf4f1;padding:40px 32px;margin-left:-32px;margin-right:-32px;border:0}#costs .eyebrow{color:var(--accent)}#costs th{background:#263c3f}#costs td,#costs th{border-color:#3d5153}#costs td:last-child{white-space:nowrap;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}#costs tbody tr:nth-last-child(-n+2){color:var(--accent)}#wifi{border-left:3px solid #93b75b;padding-left:25px}footer{background:#edf3f3;padding:45px 6%;display:flex;gap:30px;align-items:center;flex-wrap:wrap}footer p{font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);flex:1}footer>a:not(.brand){font-size:14px}@media(max-width:1200px){.reading-layout{padding-left:30px;padding-right:45px;gap:35px;grid-template-columns:190px minmax(0,1fr)}.fact-strip{margin-left:30px;margin-right:30px}.hero{margin-left:20px;margin-right:20px}}@media(max-width:800px){.masthead{padding:20px 22px}.masthead nav{gap:18px}.masthead nav a:first-child{display:none}.brand{font-size:29px}.title-block{margin:45px auto 30px;padding:0 24px}h1{letter-spacing:-1.6px}.deck{font-size:19px}.season{margin-left:49px;flex-basis:100%;font-size:12px}.hero{margin:0}.hero figcaption{padding:15px 22px;font-size:12px}.fact-strip{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;padding:20px 0;margin:0 22px 35px;row-gap:25px}.fact-strip>div{padding:0 16px}.fact-strip>div:nth-child(2){border:0}.fact-strip strong{font-size:30px}.reading-layout{display:block;padding:0 24px 45px}.reading-layout aside{position:static;max-height:none;margin-bottom:45px}.reading-layout aside details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding-bottom:15px}.reading-layout aside details a{font-size:14px}.chapter h2{font-size:32px}.chapter{margin-top:45px;padding-top:32px}article p{font-size:17px;line-height:1.85}article .opening>p:nth-child(2){font-size:25px}#costs{margin-left:-24px;margin-right:-24px;padding:32px 24px}.photo-pair{gap:12px}.chapter figcaption{font-size:12px}footer{gap:18px;padding:30px 24px}footer p{flex-basis:100%;order:3;margin:0}.table-scroll{max-width:100%}td,th{padding:12px;font-size:14px}}@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}}@media print{aside,.masthead nav,footer,.skip{display:none}.reading-layout{display:block;max-width:100%;padding:0}.chapter{break-inside:auto}figure{break-inside:avoid}.hero{max-width:650px}#costs{background:white;color:black}.title-block{margin-top:20px}h1{font-size:48px}}

.brand-intro{max-width:1120px;margin:45px auto 0;padding:30px 0 35px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.brand-intro>div{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1.4fr;gap:50px;align-items:start}.brand-intro h2{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:32px;line-height:1.2;font-weight:400;margin:0}.brand-intro p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:17px;line-height:1.75;margin:0;color:var(--muted)}@media(max-width:1200px){.brand-intro{margin:35px 40px 0}}@media(max-width:800px){.brand-intro{margin:15px 24px 0;padding:25px 0 30px}.brand-intro>div{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:18px}.brand-intro h2{font-size:29px}.brand-intro p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:16px}}

.brand-intro{margin-bottom:65px}.deck{max-width:760px}.chapter p:has(>strong:first-child){text-wrap:pretty}@media(max-width:800px){.masthead nav{gap:13px;font-size:12px}.masthead nav a[href="#about"]{display:none}.brand-intro{margin-bottom:40px}}

.map-frame{min-height:480px;background:#edf3f3;border:1px solid var(--line);margin:24px 0 14px;overflow:hidden}.map-frame iframe{max-width:100%;border:0}.route-map .map-caption{font-size:14px;line-height:1.6;color:var(--muted)}.map-open{display:inline-block;font-size:15px;font-weight:700;margin:0 0 8px}@media(max-width:800px){.map-frame{min-height:360px}}

.dm-callout{margin-top:30px;padding:28px;background:#edf3e5;border-left:4px solid #668147;border-radius:0 8px 8px 0}.dm-callout h3{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:27px;line-height:1.3;font-weight:400;margin:0 0 12px}.dm-callout p{margin-bottom:18px}.dm-callout a{display:inline-block;font-size:15px;font-weight:700;line-height:1.5}.dm-callout strong{white-space:nowrap}@media(max-width:800px){.dm-callout{padding:22px}.dm-callout h3{font-size:24px}}

/* Phone navigation and reading layout */
.mobile-menu{display:none}
@media screen and (max-width:800px){
 html{scroll-padding-top:20px}
 body{font-size:17px;overflow-wrap:break-word;-webkit-text-size-adjust:100%}
 .masthead{position:relative;padding:12px 20px;gap:16px;min-height:72px}
 .masthead>nav{display:none}
 .masthead .brand{font-size:30px}
 .mobile-menu{display:block;margin-left:auto}
 .mobile-menu summary{cursor:pointer;min-height:44px;padding:9px 15px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:6px;font-size:16px;font-weight:700;list-style:none}
 .mobile-menu summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}
 .mobile-menu summary::after{content:' +';margin-left:8px}
 .mobile-menu[open] summary::after{content:' −'}
 .mobile-menu nav{position:absolute;z-index:10;top:100%;left:0;right:0;display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:stretch;gap:0;padding:8px 20px 16px;background:white;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);box-shadow:0 12px 18px #0f242714}
 .masthead .mobile-menu nav a,.masthead .mobile-menu nav a:first-child,.masthead .mobile-menu nav a[href="#about"]{display:block;min-height:48px;padding:11px 8px;font-size:16px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}
 .title-block{margin:30px auto 26px;padding:0 20px}
 h1{font-size:clamp(38px,10vw,64px);line-height:1.1;letter-spacing:-1.3px;margin-bottom:20px}
 .eyebrow{letter-spacing:1.2px;margin-bottom:16px!important}
 .deck{font-size:18px;line-height:1.6;margin-bottom:22px}
 .byline{gap:10px;font-size:14px;line-height:1.5}
 .byline .avatar{flex-shrink:0}
 .byline>span:nth-child(2){flex:1;min-width:0}
 .season{margin-left:45px;font-size:14px}
 .hero figcaption{flex-direction:column;gap:5px;padding:14px 20px;font-size:14px;line-height:1.5}
 .fact-strip{margin:0 20px 28px;padding:24px 0;gap:20px 0}
 .fact-strip>div{padding:0 12px}
 .fact-strip>div:nth-child(odd){padding-left:0}
 .fact-strip span{font-size:14px}
 .reading-layout{padding:0 20px 32px}
 .reading-layout aside{margin-bottom:30px}
 .reading-layout aside details{padding:0;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:8px;background:#f4f7f7}
 .reading-layout aside summary{font-size:16px;padding:15px 16px;margin:0;min-height:52px}
 .reading-layout aside details[open]{padding-bottom:10px}
 .reading-layout aside details a{font-size:15px;line-height:1.5;min-height:44px;padding:11px 16px}
 article p{font-size:17px;line-height:1.75;margin-bottom:22px}
 article .opening>p:nth-child(2){font-size:24px;line-height:1.5}
 .chapter{margin-top:36px;padding-top:28px}
 .chapter h2{font-size:clamp(27px,7vw,34px);line-height:1.25;letter-spacing:-.4px;margin-bottom:22px;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
 .chapter figure,.chapter figure.portrait{margin:24px 0 12px;max-width:100%}
 .chapter figcaption{font-size:14px;line-height:1.6}
 .photo-pair{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:10px}
 #costs{margin-left:-20px;margin-right:-20px;padding:28px 20px}
 .table-scroll{width:100%;margin:20px 0;overscroll-behavior-x:contain}
 table{width:100%;table-layout:fixed}
 td,th{padding:12px 8px;font-size:14px;line-height:1.6;overflow-wrap:anywhere}
 #costs td:last-child{white-space:normal}
 #wifi{padding-left:16px}
 .map-frame{min-height:0;max-width:100%;margin:20px 0 14px}
 .map-frame>div{max-width:100%}
 .map-frame iframe{display:block;width:100%!important;max-width:100%}
 .map-open,.dm-callout a{display:block;padding:12px 14px;min-height:48px;border:1px solid #668147;border-radius:6px;line-height:1.5;font-size:16px;text-align:center}
 .dm-callout{padding:20px 16px;margin-top:24px}
 .dm-callout strong{white-space:normal}
 .dm-callout h3{font-size:25px}
 .brand-intro{margin:12px 20px 32px}
 footer{padding:24px 20px;gap:12px 20px;align-items:flex-start}
 footer .brand{flex-basis:100%}
 footer>a:not(.brand){min-height:44px;padding:10px 0;font-size:15px}
}
@media screen and (max-width:360px){
 .title-block,.reading-layout{padding-left:16px;padding-right:16px}
 #costs{margin-left:-16px;margin-right:-16px;padding-left:16px;padding-right:16px}
 .fact-strip{margin-left:16px;margin-right:16px}
 .fact-strip strong{font-size:28px}
 .chapter h2{font-size:27px}
}

/* Travel journal homepage */
.breadcrumbs{font-size:14px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.6;margin-bottom:22px;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px}
.home-hero{max-width:1320px;margin:0 auto;display:grid;grid-template-columns:.9fr 1.1fr;min-height:620px;background:var(--dark);color:#fff}
.home-hero-copy{padding:64px 48px;align-self:center}.home-hero .eyebrow{color:var(--accent)}
.home-hero h1{font-size:clamp(48px,5.6vw,78px);letter-spacing:-2px;line-height:1.06}.home-hero h1 em{color:var(--accent)}
.home-lead{font-size:18px;line-height:1.75;color:#e1e9e8;margin:0 0 28px;max-width:470px}
.primary-link{display:inline-flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:18px;min-height:50px;padding:14px 20px;background:var(--accent);color:var(--dark);font-size:16px;font-weight:700;line-height:1.5;text-decoration:none;border-radius:4px}.primary-link:hover{background:#b6d777}
.home-hero-photo{margin:0;position:relative;min-width:0;display:flex;flex-direction:column}.home-hero-photo img{width:100%;height:100%;min-height:0;object-fit:cover;flex:1}.home-hero-photo figcaption{background:var(--dark);padding:14px 20px;font-size:14px;line-height:1.5;color:#e1e9e8}
.home-guides,.home-about,.home-follow{max-width:1120px;margin:80px auto;padding:0 28px}
.section-heading{max-width:650px;margin-bottom:32px}.home-page h2{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:42px;font-weight:400;line-height:1.2;letter-spacing:-.7px;margin:0 0 20px}.section-heading>p:last-child{color:var(--muted);font-size:18px;line-height:1.7}
.featured-guide{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:40px;align-items:center}.guide-photo{display:block;min-width:0}.guide-photo img{display:block;width:100%;height:auto}.guide-copy h3{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:36px;line-height:1.2;font-weight:400;margin:0 0 20px}.guide-copy h3 a{text-decoration:none}.guide-copy h3 a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.guide-copy>p{font-size:17px;line-height:1.75;color:var(--muted)}.guide-copy .guide-facts{font-size:14px;font-weight:700;color:var(--ink)}
.guide-shortcuts{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:24px;margin-top:40px}.guide-shortcuts>a{display:flex;flex-direction:column;border-top:2px solid var(--ink);padding:22px 0 12px;text-decoration:none;gap:10px}.guide-shortcuts .eyebrow{margin:0!important}.guide-shortcuts strong{font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:24px;font-weight:400;line-height:1.3}.guide-shortcuts>a>span:last-child{color:var(--muted);font-size:15px;line-height:1.6}.guide-shortcuts>a:hover strong{text-decoration:underline}
.home-about{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1.3fr;gap:60px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:50px}.home-about p{font-size:18px;line-height:1.8;margin:0 0 22px}.text-link{display:inline-block;padding:10px 0;font-size:16px;font-weight:700;min-height:44px}
.home-follow{background:#edf3e5;padding:40px;border-left:4px solid #668147}.home-follow p:not(.eyebrow){max-width:650px;font-size:18px;line-height:1.75}
@media screen and (max-width:1100px){.home-hero-copy{padding:40px 28px}.home-hero{min-height:540px}.featured-guide{gap:28px}}
@media screen and (max-width:800px){
 .home-hero{grid-template-columns:1fr;min-height:0}.home-hero-copy{padding:36px 20px 32px}.home-hero h1{font-size:clamp(42px,10.5vw,64px);letter-spacing:-1px}.home-lead{font-size:17px;max-width:580px}
 .home-hero-photo img{width:100%;height:auto;flex:none;object-fit:contain}.home-hero-photo figcaption{padding:14px 20px}
 .home-guides,.home-about{margin:40px auto;padding:0 20px}.home-page h2{font-size:32px}.section-heading{margin-bottom:24px}.section-heading>p:last-child{font-size:17px}
 .featured-guide{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:24px}.guide-copy h3{font-size:31px}.guide-copy .eyebrow{font-size:12px!important}.guide-copy>p{font-size:17px}
 .primary-link{min-height:50px;width:100%;max-width:420px;padding:14px 16px}
 .guide-shortcuts{grid-template-columns:1fr;margin-top:30px;gap:16px}.guide-shortcuts>a{padding:20px 0 12px}.guide-shortcuts strong{font-size:25px}
 .home-about{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:8px;padding-top:32px}.home-about p{font-size:17px;line-height:1.75}
 .home-follow{margin:36px 20px;padding:26px 20px}.home-follow p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:17px}.home-follow h2{font-size:29px}
 .breadcrumbs{margin-bottom:18px}.home-page .masthead nav a[href="#guides"]{display:block}
}
.standalone-story{max-width:790px;margin:50px auto 70px;padding:0 28px}.standalone-story .opening>p:nth-child(2){font-family:Georgia,serif;font-size:28px;line-height:1.5}.second-story{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:40px;margin-top:40px}.related-story{background:#edf3e5;border-left:3px solid #668147;padding:20px;margin-top:28px!important}.story-map-link{margin-top:14px!important}.standalone-story .dm-callout p:last-child{margin-bottom:0}.standalone-story .dm-callout p:last-child a{display:inline;padding:0;border:0;min-height:0;font-size:inherit;text-align:inherit}
@media(max-width:800px){.standalone-story{margin:30px auto 40px;padding:0 20px}.standalone-story .opening>p:nth-child(2){font-size:24px}.second-story{padding-top:28px;margin-top:32px}}