THE NIGHT THAT MADE IT WORTH IT
We still had two hours to drive to our hotel. Above us, green northern lights filled the sky between the stone arches of Arctic Henge. For once, I wasn’t thinking about the road ahead.
That night was the high point of a trip I took with my brother and my best friend: ten days of waterfalls, glacier ice, unexpected reindeer, and a lot of driving. We spent approximately $2,687 each, including flights, sharing a car and accommodation along the way.
I would take this route again, with more time to enjoy it. We managed it in ten days, including departure, but I would allow twelve to fifteen next time. Here’s what we actually visited, where we stayed, and which experiences I would spend money on again.
THE DETAILS
Our trip at a glance
This trip suited us because we enjoyed photography, changing scenery, and long days on the road. If you want leisurely mornings and several nights in each place, use our stops as inspiration and give the route more time. One of our longest driving days involved roughly seven hours behind the wheel.
| Detail | Our trip |
|---|---|
| Season | Late September into early October |
| Group | Three people: me, my brother, and my best friend |
| Duration | Nine sightseeing days, then departure on Day 10 |
| Route | Reykjavík, South Coast, east and north Iceland, Westfjords, Snæfellsnes, and back toward the airport |
| Transport | An all-wheel-drive SUV |
| Internet | Airport-collected portable Wi-Fi with unlimited data |
| Stays | Nine nights in hotels, guesthouses, and apartments |
| Recorded spending | About $8,060 for three, including flights |
| My next-trip priority | More time, with two nights in Akureyri |
The itinerary below follows the trip we took, including the places we skipped. Costs are our recorded expenses in US dollars, not current booking prices. Each overnight price is the total we recorded for our group, not a per-person rate.
EXPLORE OUR STOPS
Our Iceland trip, on the map
Explore the places we visited, grouped by day. Tap the map to activate it, then select a pin for details or use “Zoom into…” to explore a day.
Pins identify places, not exact parking areas or hiking access points. The ice-cave tour and unidentified detours aren’t pinned. Our Stokksnes visit is represented by the Vestrahorn pin.
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Open @kiaandmat on Instagram ↗DAY 01 / SEPTEMBER 28
Blue Lagoon after the flight, then Reykjavík
Blue Lagoon turned out to be exactly what we wanted after a long flight. We had picked up our SUV and portable Wi-Fi at the airport, stopped for breakfast, and then headed for the water. The soak helped us shake off that exhausted, just-landed feeling before the road trip really began.
Afterward, we explored Reykjavík, saw Hallgrímskirkja, and walked along Rainbow Street. We left Þingvellir for the following morning, which kept the arrival day manageable.
Our stay: Hotel Laxnes had an inn-like feel and a comfortable bed. A KFC within walking distance stayed open late during our visit, making dinner easy. Recorded lodging cost: $188.
I’d repeat: Blue Lagoon on arrival day. For us, it was a welcome chance to relax before moving between places almost every day.

DAY 02 / SEPTEMBER 29
The Golden Circle, blue water, and our first aurora
We started at Þingvellir in light drizzle, with green scenery and a small waterfall where we stopped for pictures. From there, our day included Brúarfoss, the Geysir area, Gullfoss, and Háifoss.
Brúarfoss was the standout for me. I had never seen water quite that blue. My edit enhances the color in the photograph, but it was striking in person too. At the geyser area, the sulfur smell around the hot water is another detail that stayed with me.
Háifoss offered a different view: a tall waterfall dropping into a deep valley beneath us. We followed a gravel road to the parking area, where parking was free during our visit, and stayed at the upper viewpoint near the benches. We didn’t hike down into the valley.
Despite the number of stops, the day felt comfortable and unhurried. Then, around 9 p.m. on the dark road toward our accommodation, we spotted our first northern lights. There was cloud, and the display was fainter than the one still to come at Arctic Henge. But seeing them for the first time made an ordinary drive memorable.
Our stay: Lindartún Guesthouse had a wooden, cabin-style feel, was easy to find, and worked well for our route. Recorded lodging cost: $213.

DAY 03 / SEPTEMBER 30
South Coast waterfalls and a detour into the fog
We reached Seljalandsfoss in the rain. We went close for photographs and videos but decided against walking behind it. That became part of the rhythm of this trip: enjoy what the weather allows and keep moving when it doesn’t.
A spontaneous gravel-road detour took us uphill into the fog, past tiny waterfalls. The road kept climbing, and although we never got a wide, clear view, we enjoyed the atmosphere. I don’t have a verified route to share for that detour, but it remains one of the small unplanned moments I remember fondly.
Skógafoss was one of my favorite waterfalls of the trip. I took plenty of photographs there before we continued to Reynisfjara’s black-sand beach and stopped in Vík. Our overnight stay was farther along the route at Fosshótel Núpar.
Our stay: A low-rise hotel with a valley outlook and a room we enjoyed. We paid for breakfast the following morning, which gave us a good start before setting off. Recorded lodging cost: $455.17. Breakfast for our group: $86.68.

DAY 04 / OCTOBER 1
Was the ice-cave tour worth $176 each?
Walking on a glacier was memorable. The ice cave looked different from what I had imagined.
Our tour cost $176 each, or $528 for the three of us. We put traction spikes over our shoes and walked on the ice, which was a highlight of the experience for me as a first-time visitor.
The cave had blue ice, but also dirt and plenty of dripping water. The pristine, intensely blue scenes I had seen online had set different expectations. I still enjoyed the tour; the glacier walk was a large part of why.
My verdict: I’m glad we tried it, but I probably wouldn’t book the same experience again on another early-October trip. I’d put that money toward something new. I wouldn’t assume a different month guarantees the cave appearance you see in photographs.
We skipped Diamond Beach, saw ice and glaciers elsewhere along the way, and spotted a couple of reindeer on a dirt-road detour. That unexpected encounter was a highlight in its own right.
At Vestrahorn, rain and fog hid the mountain view we had hoped for. We parked and walked a little, then enjoyed the Viking Village set in the Stokksnes area. It had a nostalgic atmosphere that made the stop worthwhile even without the panorama.
Overnight: Lindarbrekka. Recorded lodging cost: $232.


DAY 05 / OCTOBER 2
Stuðlagil and the night we hoped for at Arctic Henge
This was the day with the biggest payoff and one of the heaviest driving loads. I remember roughly seven hours on the road, including about two hours after our final stop.
First came Stuðlagil Canyon. We parked and walked to the columns, then went down among the rock formations for photographs. The walk took some effort without feeling especially long to us, and we enjoyed getting close to the formations. We also stopped at Geirsstaðakirkja, an isolated building that reminded me of a Viking cabin.
We had planned Arctic Henge as our last stop so we could arrive at night. All we could do was hope for a clear enough sky.
That evening, it worked out. My friend and I spent roughly two hours with our cameras, and there was only one other visitor during that time. The green was clearly visible with our own eyes, much stronger than our first sighting earlier in the trip. Long exposure made the colors more saturated in the photograph at the top of this page.
It was worth the drive for us. Next time, I’d plan an overnight stop that reduces the journey afterward. A spectacular night doesn’t make a late two-hour drive any shorter, and the same route can’t promise the same sky.
Overnight: Skúlagarður Country Hotel & Restaurant. Recorded lodging cost: $290.

DAY 06 / OCTOBER 3
Geothermal landscapes and a city I’d stay longer in
We visited Hverir’s steaming ground and bubbling mud, the water-filled Grjótagjá cave, Hverfjall, and Goðafoss before spending time in Akureyri. We skipped Mývatn Nature Baths.
At Hverir, my friend stepped into hot mud while filming and suffered a burn near his ankle. It was an unsettling moment and a reminder to watch our footing around geothermal ground.
We hiked to the top of Hverfjall in strong wind. The climb itself felt fairly easy to us, although the wind made an impression. Goðafoss was another waterfall we enjoyed photographing.
Akureyri was the place I wanted more time in. I noticed the heart-shaped red traffic lights, and the city felt lively. We stopped for dinner, but next time I’d give it two nights and explore at a slower pace.
Our stay: Hlín Guesthouse was easy to reach, comfortable, and good value for what we paid. Recorded lodging cost: $177.

DAY 07 / OCTOBER 4
Hvítserkur and small moments on the road
This felt like a slower sightseeing day, even though we were still covering ground toward the Westfjords.
Hvítserkur was the main attraction for me. The rock formation looked like a dragon, and walking down to see it close up made its shape even more fascinating. I took photographs and drone footage there.
The drive brought its own smaller moments: a road climbing over a mountain, an old roadside house, and a white church with a red roof that we photographed from a distance. Those stops were part of the enjoyment of moving through the landscape.
Our stay: The apartment in Súðavík was particularly good for three people. We had two bedrooms, a large living room, and a kitchen, all to ourselves. Recorded lodging cost: $152.


DAY 08 / OCTOBER 5
Rain at Dynjandi, then a rainbow at Kirkjufell
It was pouring when we reached Dynjandi in the morning. We took photographs and videos but kept the visit short and didn’t walk close to the main waterfall.
Later, on the Snæfellsnes coast, we stopped among the rocks by the bright orange Svörtuloft Lighthouse. We relaxed, took pictures, and enjoyed the sea views. At Kirkjufell, a rainbow appeared above the mountain. After the rain at the start of the day, it was a welcome change.
These were memorable stops, but the Westfjords-to-Snæfellsnes stretch is one I would give more time on a longer trip.
Our stay: Hótel Á had a comfortable room over two levels, with one bed downstairs and two upstairs. We enjoyed breakfast there, though I can’t confirm whether it was included in our rate. Recorded lodging cost: $192.


DAY 09 / OCTOBER 6
My first horseback ride and a quiet final night
We kept our last full day relaxed, with some walking and a horseback ride that lasted about one hour and 45 minutes. We skipped Barnafoss, Krauma, and Sky Lagoon.
It was my first time riding, and I loved the change of pace after so much driving and sightseeing. The Icelandic horses looked different from the horses I was used to seeing, and spending time with them was a memorable way to finish.
I would happily do this again. My first experience was enjoyable enough that I’d encourage other first-timers to consider a suitable beginner ride too. Our expense record lists Hestaland and $328 for the activity.
Our stay: Garður Apartments felt modern and cabin-like, in a quiet location a little out of the way. With a car, that suited us well. I would stay again. Recorded lodging cost: $221.
DAY 10 / OCTOBER 7
A short drive to the airport
Our last morning was for departure. I remember the drive from Garður Apartments to the airport taking less than twenty minutes, which made the final stay convenient.
Allow for that when using this itinerary: our ten days included the day we flew home, leaving nine for sightseeing.
THE DETAILS
What we spent: approximately $2,687 per person
Our recorded total was $8,060.33 for three people, or $2,686.78 each if split equally, including flights. It covered nearly all our spending and gives a useful starting point for understanding the cost of our trip.
| Recorded category | Group total, USD |
|---|---|
| Flights | $2,347.00 |
| Accommodation, nine nights | $2,120.17 |
| SUV rental | $922.00 |
| Fuel | $791.00 |
| Ice-cave/glacier tour | $528.00 |
| Horseback riding | $328.00 |
| Other recorded expenses: food, groceries, internet, and transit | $1,024.16 |
| Total | $8,060.33 |
| Average per person if split equally | $2,686.78 |
Without flights: approximately $1,904 per person. Sharing the car and accommodation three ways helped, while fuel alone came to $791 for the group. That is one reason the distance matters when planning this route.
Budget note: Blue Lagoon admission isn’t separately identifiable in our expense export, so this is an approximate spending record, not a complete itemized quote. Your flights, room arrangements, dates, and activities will affect the total.
THE DETAILS
What worked for internet on the road
The portable Wi-Fi was one of our best practical decisions. We collected it at the airport, had unlimited data for the trip, and charged it in the car while driving.
My friend’s eSIMs failed to connect quite a few times, while the hotspot gave us internet pretty much everywhere we went. Coverage will depend on the service you choose, but I would use this setup again for a similar trip.
THE DETAILS
What I would repeat and what I would change
| Experience | My verdict |
|---|---|
| Blue Lagoon after landing | Repeat. It helped us relax after the flight. |
| Brúarfoss and Skógafoss | Return. Both were photography highlights. |
| Arctic Henge at night | Keep, with more flexibility and less driving afterward. |
| Horseback riding | Repeat. I enjoyed it as a first-timer. |
| The same ice-cave tour in early October | Choose something new next time. The glacier walk was memorable, but the cave didn’t match my expectations. |
| Moving almost every night | Slow down. More nights in fewer places would make the journey easier. |
THE DETAILS
How I would extend this to 12–15 days
My first priority is two nights in Akureyri. After that, I’d break up the northern drive and give the Westfjords and Snæfellsnes more breathing room. This is how I would redistribute a longer trip, rather than a second route we have already tested.
| Trip length | Where I would put the extra time |
|---|---|
| 12 days | Prioritize a two-night Akureyri stay and a better-placed overnight stop around the Arctic Henge detour. |
| 14 days | Give the Westfjords and Snæfellsnes additional time as well. |
| Around 15 days | Add flexibility in the southeast, especially for the mountain views we missed in fog. |
I would map the overnight stops before booking, because an extra night only helps if it reduces the drives you want to shorten. The aim would be to enjoy the places already on the route, with room for a slower morning or a change in weather.
THE DETAILS
Would I recommend this road trip?
Yes, for travelers comfortable with substantial driving. Ten days gave the three of us an extraordinary range of experiences, from glacier ice to a first horseback ride and northern lights we could see with our own eyes.
If you have more time, give yourself twelve to fifteen days. If you have ten, decide which experiences matter most before committing to every detour. For me, Arctic Henge earned its place. Next time, I’d just like the bed to be closer afterward.
